Figure out what's wrong with your bike — and what to do next.
Something wrong with your bike? Describe what you notice—or choose the part that's giving you trouble. Bike Medic starts with safe checks and helps you narrow down likely causes and work through what to try next, including when not to ride and when it's time for a bike shop.
Real output from an actual run on the problem below — an excerpt of a longer result, nothing reworded.
The problem
My rear derailleur is skipping under load when I push hard on the pedals, especially going uphill. Started after a wet ride last week.
Real run, 2026-10-08 — one of the tool's own built-in examples. Rated moderate, safe to ride.
After a wet ride, water and grit work into the cable housing and increase friction, which changes the effective cable tension when you load the drivetrain. The derailleur then cannot hold the chain precisely on the sprocket under pedaling force, causing it to skip toward an adjacent sprocket and back. This is a cable-and-housing problem until proven otherwise — it is the most common mechanical consequence of riding in wet conditions and the cheapest to address.
When you re-lube the cable, put the lube at the housing entry points and then cycle the shifter several times to work it in — lubing only the exposed cable section between housing segments does little for the friction that actually causes indexing shift.
Take it to a shop if the derailleur hanger appears bent, if new cable and housing does not resolve the skipping under load, if the cassette shows worn teeth and you are unsure how to match a replacement to your drivetrain specification, or if you are not comfortable measuring chain wear accurately.
The usual causes are a shifting cable with grit or friction in its housing (common after a wet ride), indexing that needs a small barrel-adjuster tweak, a bent derailleur hanger, or a worn chain or cassette. Check the hanger first, then the cable, then measure the chain.
Measure it with a chain-wear checker. A common rule is to replace at 0.5% stretch for 11- and 12-speed chains and 0.75% for 10-speed and below. A worn chain left too long wears the cassette too, and then both need replacing.
If the chain is slow to shift to bigger sprockets, turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise (out) a half-turn at a time to add cable tension. If it is slow to shift to smaller ones, turn it clockwise. Test after each half-turn.
Usually yes for a short, gentle ride, but a skip under hard pedaling can throw you off balance, and a badly bent hanger can pull the derailleur into the wheel. Bike Medic tells you whether it's safe to ride and when it needs a shop.